Tales from the Red Zone: Rome

It’s very quiet in Rome. Except for the birds, who serenade the city in cheerful oblivion. And the occasional random concert, of which more below. Every day something happens to isolate us further. Today, the mayor closed down all the parks and playgrounds.

The public parks became so crowded — since they were among the few places people could go after the lockdown — that it became necessary to close them as well.

This is suboptimal for us dog owners.

Let me in. I want to plaaayyy!!!

I really can’t object. I’m healthy so far and I’m happy that the government is taking super strict measures to limit the spread of COVID-19.  It is surreal though. I went out to walk the dog this morning and police cars were stopping to yell at people who were walking less than one meter apart. We can still go out to buy food and to supply our pharmaceutical needs, but we have to carry a signed declaration to certify why we’re out on the street. People are being arrested and/or fined for being out of their neighbourhoods without a good reason.

A lot has happened over the past week. And, predictably, it’s bringing out the best in some people and the worst in others. On Wednesday, I innocently asked my neighbourhood Facebook group whether Vivi Bistrot, a lovely bar in the park across the street, was open. Back then, three days ago, most bars and restaurants were still open. Within ten minutes I had gotten 20 replies, ranging from “Are you *!@#@! crazy?” to “Stay inside! Are you trying to kill all the old people?” to “It’s open until 4:00. Have a nice day.” By Thursday, all of the bars were closed.

I was supposed to host my book club that night. We were going to discuss Circe by Madeline Miller, which the New York Times called “A bold and subversive retelling of the goddess’s story.” Madeline Miller taught Classics and Shakespeare at my old school, Shipley, by the way. Since the story is based on a Greek myth and it was also my birthday, I decided to serve a Greek feast with roast lamb and ancient Greek side dishes. This involved extensive research and a trip to the butcher in advance. You can get leg of lamb here (by far my fave red meat) but they chop it all up for some reason so you can’t get nice slices of lamb but only big chunks filled with bones. I do not understand this at all. So I ordered a non-chopped up boneless leg of lamb from my butcher, which he stuffed with artichokes and sausage. Delicious, right? The dinner also featured green beans with a garlic-tomato confit, a Greek salad, zucchini fritters with tsaziki, and roast potatoes with lemon and garlic.

Of course, Book Club was cancelled since, by the time Thursday rolled around, no one was allowed to go out or congregate. I already had the food so I cooked it anyway, Cooking is my stress reliever. The dinner was very delicious. My temporary flatmate, the Upstairs Vegetarian, provided no help at all with the lamb. But she did eat everything else. And then I ate half a carton of chocolate ice cream by myself (the UV has given up sweets for Lent).

Sad little birthday dinner in quarantine land (minus the beans, already consumed).

I was rather dejected about the sad sad birthday situation until I realised that not only was March 12th a terrible day for me, it was also terrible for everyone in Italy, China, Iran and pretty much everywhere else.

The following are closed:

• All museums and archeological sites
• Cafes, pubs, and restaurants (many restaurants are delivering, which is brilliant)
• Playgrounds and parks
• Shops and shopping centres
• Theatres, pubs, and nightclubs
• Schools and universities
• Hairdressers, nail and beauty salons, and spas
• Stadiums, gyms, and anyplace where sports happen

Soccer games, funerals and masses are suspended for the time being. I believe that all these events are considered to be of equal importance.

On Friday the 13th, an online movement orchestrated a musical flashmob throughout Italy. Everyone was asked to go to their windows and balconies at 6 pm and play music or sing for 15 minutes as a way to show national unity. My neighbourhood was pretty lame, but you can find a lot of these impromptu concerts online, e.g. this one from Siena. And today at noon, everyone was encouraged to go to their windows and balconies and applaud all of the brave doctors and nurses who are working around the clock to fight the coronavirus. You could hear the applause all over town. There’s supposed to be another musical flashmob tonight at 6. This is why I love Italians.

There are now 17 660 positive cases of coronavirus in Italy; 1 266 people have died. #iorestoacasa.